Diyarbakır Breakfast and Food Guide

Food in Diyarbakır is not a side note to sightseeing; it is one of the quickest ways to get to know Diyarbakır. The smell of liver grilling over charcoal early in the morning, long breakfast tables set up in the courtyard of a historic inn, cold ayran in the midday heat, a huge watermelon cut open on the banks of the Tigris in the late afternoon. Rather than recommending particular restaurants, this guide explains what is eaten, when and how, so that wherever you end up in Diyarbakır you will know your way around the table.

Short answer: The highlights of Diyarbakır’s kitchen are its long, generous breakfast, liver kebab (eaten even in the morning), kaburga dolması (stuffed lamb ribs served at holidays and for guests), meftune (a garlicky aubergine and meat stew with a sour note) and Diyarbakır’s famously large watermelons. Go to the historic inns and the old city for breakfast, eat liver kebab in the morning or evening, and save watermelon for July and August.

What makes a Diyarbakır breakfast different?

Breakfast in Diyarbakır is not a quick bite. The table fills with small plates and keeps filling after you sit down: herb cheese, braided cheese, salty and fresh cheeses, black and green olives, honey with clotted cream, butter, jams, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and walnuts, plus hot egg dishes and kavurma (fried preserved meat). The bread arrives warm and the tea never stops.

It is also a social occasion. At weekends families and groups of friends linger for hours, so do not rush. Breakfast can easily take up the first two hours of your day.

Where do people go for breakfast?

The symbol of Diyarbakır’s breakfast culture is the historic inns inside the old city. The best known is the 16th-century Hasan Pasha Han, where shops around the courtyard serve breakfast and weekend mornings get busy. There are plenty of other options inside Sur and around Dağkapı, while cafés in Ofis and Kayapınar offer their own take on the traditional spread. Arrive early at weekends to avoid a wait.

Why is liver kebab eaten in the morning in Diyarbakır?

Liver kebab is Diyarbakır’s signature dish. Lamb liver is cut into small cubes, threaded on skewers with pieces of tail fat and grilled over charcoal. It comes with flatbread, onion, parsley, grilled peppers and tomatoes, and chilli flakes for those who want them. What sets Diyarbakır apart is that liver is not just an evening meal. Liver grills open early, and regulars eat skewers instead of breakfast before heading to work.

If you are trying it for the first time, start with a few skewers; the amount of fat varies, and some places make a leaner version. Ayran or şalgam (fermented turnip juice) goes well with it. Liver grills are busy in the evening too.

What is kaburga dolması?

Kaburga dolması is one of the most labour-intensive dishes in the Diyarbakır kitchen. A pocket is cut between the meat and bones of a lamb rib rack, filled with spiced rice, minced meat and nuts, then slow-roasted. The result is crisp outside, with buttery rice soaked in meat juices inside. Because it takes so long, it is traditionally made for holidays, weddings and important guests. Some restaurants cook it on certain days or to order, so ask in advance.

What kind of dish is meftune?

Meftune is a favourite of home cooking in Diyarbakır. Aubergine and meat, usually lamb or beef, are cooked with plenty of garlic, and sumac or citric acid gives the sauce its distinctive sourness. Some households add courgette or tomato. It looks simple but tastes intense. You will mostly find it in tradesmen’s restaurants serving home-style food, with rice and ayran on the side.

Are Diyarbakır watermelons really that big?

That is certainly their reputation. Diyarbakır watermelons are grown in fields along the Tigris and are famous for their size; traditional growers are said to raise them in the sandy soil along the river. Not every melon at the market is a giant, but in summer watermelon is on every table. July and August are the best months. Eating cold watermelon by the Tigris at the end of a hot day is one of the simple pleasures of a Diyarbakır summer, often with a slab of white cheese on the side.

What else should you try?

• İçli köfte: bulgur shells stuffed with spiced mince, boiled or fried.
• Lebeni soup: a light yoghurt and wheat soup, served cool in summer and hot in winter.
• Aubergine kebab: mince and aubergine grilled together on a skewer.
• Burma kadayıf and syrup desserts: with tea after a meal.
• Mırra: the region’s bitter, dark coffee, drunk in small amounts from tiny cups.

A few Diyarbakır table customs

Hospitality in Diyarbakır extends to the table. Tea is offered almost everywhere; laying your spoon across the glass is a polite way to say you have had enough. Portions are generous, so if you are a small group, order a few dishes and share. Salad, onions and grilled vegetables usually come with kebabs as a matter of course. During Ramadan some restaurants close in the daytime or work around the evening meal, and the busy iftar tables are an experience of their own.

Getting to breakfast and dinner in Diyarbakır

Diyarbakır’s food spots are spread across Diyarbakır’s central districts. The historic inns and liver grills cluster in and around Sur, while modern cafés sit in Ofis and Kayapınar. If you are staying on the western side of Diyarbakır, the old city is a short drive away. For an early breakfast at the weekend or a late dinner after a long day, a pre-booked Diyarbakır transfer saves you looking for a taxi, and a car that waits for you is useful if you plan to visit several places in one evening.

A one-day food plan

For a short visit, try a long breakfast in a historic inn, a walk around Sur, meftune or the dish of the day for lunch, a dessert and tea break in the afternoon, and liver kebab in the evening. In summer, end the day with watermelon by the river. Combine it with our Diyarbakır sightseeing route and you will have seen and tasted the best of Diyarbakır in a day.

Frequently asked questions

When is the best time for breakfast?

Weekend mornings are the liveliest but also the busiest. Go early, or choose a weekday for a quieter table.

Is liver kebab a breakfast or a dinner dish?

Both. Many locals eat it in the morning instead of breakfast, others in the evening. Liver grills open early.

Can I find kaburga dolması everywhere?

No. It takes a long time to prepare, so some restaurants make it only on certain days or to order. Ask ahead.

When is watermelon season?

July and August.

To get from the airport straight to your hotel, see our Diyarbakır hotel transfer, or keep a car for the day with Diyarbakır chauffeured car hire.